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> Smitty Sled, Hope this makes things easier!
Michael Kerwin
Posted: Feb 26, 2016 - 01:40 pm


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QUOTE (nsfisher @ Dec 31, 2015 - 12:02 pm)
I did consider a harness but as you noted I don't like being tethered either.

One alternative to a harness is to use a traditional tumpline made from either harness leather or 1" webbing with a canoe tump attached to distribute the weight more evenly over the chest area. Tumps are easy to use: simply place the tump over the shoulders onto the chest and over the arms; the arms may wrap once around the tump to take some of the weight off the chest if desired. Alternatively, the tump can be slung over one shoulder only or simply held in the hand. In all cases, there is no issue with extricating oneself from the tump in the event of an emergency.

One other tip: the tump can be used to help brake when descending a steep slope simply by allowing the tump to fall under the runners.

Happy hauling!

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Michael Kerwin
Posted: Feb 26, 2016 - 01:43 pm


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Hauling a sled with a tump

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Michael Kerwin
Posted: Feb 26, 2016 - 01:46 pm


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Tumpline made from 1" webbing and a canoe tump.

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kingphoenix
Posted: Feb 26, 2016 - 01:56 pm


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I used a piece of PVC tube to make a sort of a tow bar so that it would pull evenly and not want to pull the skiis together. I also use alot of rope, im about 15 ft in front of my sled. I usually just put it over my head and around my waist. Turning isnt easy tho, and be careful when you stop that your sled doesnt run keep sliding and run into you!

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Solaireofastora
Posted: Feb 26, 2016 - 03:13 pm


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I've seen that sled in action and it is impressive. I've seen nsfisher pull that thing with one finger! I created my own out of an old GT snowracer. I just took the seat of bolted on a piece of wood then attached a storage bin to the wood. Works great. The front ski turns left and right and also pivots up and down. Makes drifts a dream could use a loger rope though. Also I don't own a pop-up. Its only big enough to carry two persons worth of gear minus a hut. When I get a hut I will probably have to build a proper smitty.

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Hardicer
Posted: Feb 27, 2016 - 08:57 pm


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Great sleds and great ideas - I have to chime in on the topic as well - I've been using this one for the last 2 years and it works great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCXKm3_ayjQ

Good luck on the ice.

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Biker
Posted: Feb 28, 2016 - 09:44 am


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Love your sled Icedog, hope you don't mind if I copy your design. will build ready for next season.

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AlconaKevin
Posted: Feb 28, 2016 - 07:02 pm


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Mine....comes apart into for pieces that fir in the back of my hatchback car...

Here it is packed to the MAX, with two huts.

It changed walking on the ice forever.

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Knuguy
Posted: Oct 30, 2016 - 08:06 am


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Craig,

Maybe you explained this already, but how did you cut out the 2 x 8 like that so the cross bars would sit flush?

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nsfisher
Posted: Oct 31, 2016 - 07:15 am


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QUOTE (Knuguy @ Oct 30, 2016 - 08:06 am)
Craig,

Maybe you explained this already, but how did you cut out the 2 x 8 like that so the cross bars would sit flush?

I just notched them out Harold, Used a skill saw and chisel because that's all I had available. I also drilled a hole down the middle to receive the bolts that I put through the ends of the 2x4 cross members. These help keep things tight & square.

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xiaolu
Posted: Nov 01, 2016 - 09:00 am


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QUOTE (AlconaKevin @ Feb 28, 2016 - 07:02 pm)
Mine....comes apart into for pieces that fir in the back of my hatchback car...

Here it is packed to the MAX, with two huts.

It changed walking on the ice forever.

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Very true! You see, my green bag and my big CLAM hut in the black bag, and the photo I took:-):

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Knuguy
Posted: Nov 01, 2016 - 09:48 am


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QUOTE (nsfisher @ Oct 31, 2016 - 08:15 am)
QUOTE (Knuguy @ Oct 30, 2016 - 08:06 am)
Craig,

Maybe you explained this already, but how did you cut out the 2 x 8 like that so the cross bars would sit flush?

I just notched them out Harold, Used a skill saw and chisel because that's all I had available. I also drilled a hole down the middle to receive the bolts that I put through the ends of the 2x4 cross members. These help keep things tight & square.

Thx,

I have about the same wood butchery skills as you have then. I guess I was hoping for a slicker way of doing it.

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Fishin fan
Posted: Nov 01, 2016 - 11:08 am


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Use a table saw or even a skilsaw. Make multiple cuts at desired depth. Or a router if u have. Then it's easy to clean with a chisel. If u don't have the tools Harold give me a shout and I can help with that. U aren't very far away.

Dave.

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kingphoenix
Posted: Nov 01, 2016 - 11:32 am


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QUOTE (Knuguy @ Nov 01, 2016 - 09:48 am)
QUOTE (nsfisher @ Oct 31, 2016 - 08:15 am)
QUOTE (Knuguy @ Oct 30, 2016 - 08:06 am)
Craig,

Maybe you explained this already, but how did you cut out the 2 x 8 like that so the cross bars would sit flush?

I just notched them out Harold, Used a skill saw and chisel because that's all I had available. I also drilled a hole down the middle to receive the bolts that I put through the ends of the 2x4 cross members. These help keep things tight & square.

Thx,

I have about the same wood butchery skills as you have then. I guess I was hoping for a slicker way of doing it.

Use a skill saw and make multiple cuts 1/4" from each other then you can CAREFULLY move it side to side to clean out the hole. Dont make it too snug last thing you want to do is be struggling to put the thing together with gloves in -30 weather.

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Knuguy
Posted: Nov 01, 2016 - 05:22 pm


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QUOTE (Fishin fan @ Nov 01, 2016 - 12:08 pm)
Use a table saw or even a skilsaw. Make multiple cuts at desired depth. Or a router if u have. Then it's easy to clean with a chisel. If u don't have the tools Harold give me a shout and I can help with that. U aren't very far away.

Dave.

Thx for the offer, Dave. I have a skill saw so I can manage that.

(BTW, have you posted pix of your creation?)

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