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> trolling motor on kayak
gunoieru
Posted: Mar 09, 2022 - 01:59 pm


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Hi folks,

i am looking to put a motor on my kayak (12.5 feelfree moken v2, 85lb). on the final outing last year i tested the setup with motor on side of kayak but i am not happy. over the winter i started to build a mount to put it at the back. so far i have all the pieces:
1. trolling motor (46lb)
2. custom mount to attach the motor at the back of kayak
3. custom control box for motor (based on PWM)
4. 79AH battery (don't have it yet, but CT carries it so i'll buy it when i'll need it)
5. power cables: 8awg, but i will replaced them with 10awg, with silicon sleeves (hopefully more flexible)

as i said, motor will be at the back.
battery i plan to put it in the front to balance the load.

what i have trouble with, is to put it all together nice and tidy. issues i see:
- with battery in front, control box in the middle and motor at the back, there will be power cables running the length of the kayak with lots of slack to allow me to put the control box out of the way when not in use. switching to silicon 10awg might help a bit, especially in worm weather.
- to control the motor i consider 3 cables: 1 to lift the motor out of the water for shallow or weeds, 2 cables attached to the shaft to change direction (and i still have to think how to lock the motor in place when i'm not using it so it does not wiggle and interfere with paddling)


overall i am looking at an ungodly amount of cables sitting around and i'm pretty sure it will cause issues i can't even think about it yet.


so, if anyone has done anything similar, could you show a picture and some explanations of what you did and how well it works (or not)?

thanks.

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longfish
Posted: Mar 09, 2022 - 05:21 pm


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I am putting a Minn Kota Ulterra #80 on the bow of my Hobie 14 PA. BTW steering on the back is not as effective as on the bow. The Ulterra is auto stow and deploy and on a remote or my phone app, so no cables needed. It also works in conjunction with my Helix 10. It has the Humminbird link and auto pilot with built in side and down imaging. It will follow a troll line or follow a heading all hands free. It will maintain set direction or troll line regardless of wind or waves. It also comes with a foot pedal.

It has a custom mount...I believe it came from a supplier called Obsession.

Between the deck and the motor will be a quick release plate.

The motor is a 24 volt system with 2 Lifepo4 lithium 100AH batteries using 6AWG wiring. Use a marine safe wiring.

The 24 volt system will have a 60 amp breaker in it in case of surges....to protect the motor.

The Kayak will also have a 12 volt system for nav lights and interior lighting as well as charging cell phone and other 12v toys.

I put two tracks on it to hold two Scotty rod holders, my Helix 10 GPS Sonar and other toys.

On the rail is a 1061 Scotty down rigger manual type with numbers.


The only thing I do not have yet is the motor and it is supposed to come in soon. I will then start the process of laying it all out and assembling it.

My batteries will go behind the seat that balances the motor on the bow. Each battery is only 23 lbs....they are half the weight of Lead acid....charge faster and go twice the distance, in two battery boxes wired for the 24v...the Breaker will be in the centre storage bin. All connectors will be Anderson quick connect plugs. The Lithium batteries

I hope parts of this help you or give you some ideas. 10 AWG wiring on your set up may be a bit light and may create to much resistance due to long wiring....suggest at least 8AWG marine wiring with a 60 amp breaker.

I am setting this thing up to fish salmon in Lake O, Georgian Bay and Lake Huron.

I have put about 6 months of thought, planning and searching for just the right parts to create this tournament Kayak...I wish you good luck.

Arnie

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gunoieru
Posted: Mar 10, 2022 - 05:12 pm


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our setups are so different are not even in the same league mine is a lot more... DYI, shall call it?
although you do make some good points.

i am not planning on having the kind of steering control your system is offering so stern mount is fine enough (or at least that;s what i tell myself now). way better than side anyways.

for "main" power cable though i think i will poke a whole in the rear hatch and run it inside the kayak. being hidden i can use the 8awg cable. motor itself comes with 10awg cable.

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longfish
Posted: Mar 10, 2022 - 10:31 pm


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QUOTE (gunoieru @ Mar 10, 2022 - 05:12 pm)
our setups are so different are not even in the same league mine is a lot more... DYI, shall call it?
although you do make some good points.

i am not planning on having the kind of steering control your system is offering so stern mount is fine enough (or at least that;s what i tell myself now). way better than side anyways.

for "main" power cable though i think i will poke a whole in the rear hatch and run it inside the kayak. being hidden i can use the 8awg cable. motor itself comes with 10awg cable.

Yes our systems are different but I thought you would get something out of mine. I researched stern or bow mount and turning is tighter on the bow.

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gunoieru
Posted: Apr 15, 2022 - 10:34 am


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well, i managed to build something:

1. battery inside the front hatch


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gunoieru
Posted: Apr 15, 2022 - 10:35 am


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2. motor control box


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gunoieru
Posted: Apr 15, 2022 - 10:36 am


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3. motor lift rope system, based on 2 pulleys


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gunoieru
Posted: Apr 15, 2022 - 10:37 am


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4. back of kayak with all the ropes. it is ugly but i think it should work. this weekend sucks but maybe next i will be able to get it out for a few hours


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chang_hai
Posted: May 25, 2022 - 08:42 am


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QUOTE (gunoieru @ Apr 15, 2022 - 11:34 am)
well, i managed to build something:

1. battery inside the front hatch

I set up the trolling motor very similar. Battery stored in hull at front, motor installed at back end of the kayak. I used 10 gauge wire connecting battery through the hull, and used a extended handle to control motor, worked well.

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gunoieru
Posted: May 30, 2022 - 10:41 am


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to conclude the story, here's the setup in action, few weeks back.

experience taught me to link the 2 control ropes with a bungee cord and run it around the console in front of me. this way i can "lock" the motor in the desired position. useful while searching for pike, was moving slowly while casting around me.


as a side note, i did catch one spring pike but in a very unexpected way: after trolling and searching for it (with only a couple bites to account for it) i gave up @ 11 am and thought to spend some time perching before going home. very first cast with an ultra light setup (float & 1/16oz jig with piece of plastic worm) i pulled a 3lb pike. very light bite, the jig hooked right behind the teeth, all the line (6lb fluoro) out of the mouth, otherwise it would've cut it for sure.


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gunoieru
Posted: May 30, 2022 - 11:14 am


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maybe useful for anyone willing to build something similar:
- trolling motor: Newport Vessels NV-Series 46lb
- main power cable (inside kayak): Amazon Basics Jumper Cable for Car Battery, 8 Gauge, 16 Foot
- outside power cable: Bullz Audio BPES10.25 25' True 10 Gauge AWG
- power controller: PWM Motor Speed Controller
- connectors: 4 Sets 50A 6-10 Gauge Battery Quick Connector
- voltmeter: CyanHall DC 12V LED Digital Display Voltmeter
- pulleys: Lixada 2 PCS Kayak Slide Rail Anchor Trolley Kit Pulley
- battery: MOTOMASTER NAUTILUS AGM Group Size 24 Battery
- some bits and ends for the mounting and controlling the kayak, based on the kayak, use your imagination. if you have rear tracks like i do, feel free to replicate the design.

it was roughly $700 cost overall in parts and components.

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