Update on my topic on Clam plate/pro drive, etc., ...what I ended up figuring out & doing

I thought it may be useful to others who have chimed in on various suggestions, etc. on my previous topic to report what I think I discovered with my issues so that others who maybe thinking of going with a power drill can learn from it as well as "trouble-shoot" when things don't go as well as hoped.
Possible reasons I was stalling out multiple times during hole drilling: low powered/torquing power drill, dull auger blades, batteries, technique?
I saw a Woods E-drill on sale at Crappy Tires last week (may still be on) that had an adaptor with handle (but attached in the correct, useful way that will not require me to use my left hand on the drill and brace the drill on my hip kind of deal or get a nice right wrist whipping). I asked the agent about it and he said, that if it didn't work for my drill and I didn't like it, return it...so okay, I gave it a shot.
Easy set up, lighter than my Finbore with a different balance when carrying it horizontally but easy enough to get use.
Read instructions and also the CT agent suggested that I start slowly and also there was no need to really put too much downward pressure on it.
First hole...moment of truth. Remembering what everyone had said, I ease into it slowly with light pressure.....presto. First hole cut almost clean through except at the very end just as I was getting through the ice...not unusual. Pulled out a little and started again and easy through. Second hole was just as easy. Since then I have punched about 15 holes and some have gone through all the way and others need the shaved ice to be pulled out a bit and drill again. Much easier.
My conclusion is that the Ryobi brushless hammer drill I have has sufficient torque (for my needs and I am sure if I get the technique right with this set up, I will be able to punch all holes without a stall...I may still be pushing down too much and need to learn to let the shaving/turning do the work instead of adding more pressure - less is more!). Same batteries and so I don't think they were ever an issue (only using a 4A high performance battery... 15 holes (about 12-14" of ice, half crap and half decent, and still two bars left).
I think the Finbore auger should be fine as well but I may need to sharpen or replace the blades (it has been a few years) or maybe add shims to change the angle of the blades a little bit for the power drill but for hand augering, the angle and blades' sharpness still seems to be fine. Replacement blades for that auger are not cheap and no time to play around with adding shims and testing, etc., etc. So, I may just keep the Finbore as a hand auger (for those thinner ice days when I don't water to bother bringing the power drill set up or I know I won't have to pop a bunch of holes looking for fish) and keep the Woods E-Drill for the power drill. The sale price was $215 but I had a bunch of CT points that meant little cash was needed.

A more powerful drill would for sure make things even easier (but costly). Sharp blades too and possibly angle of blades adjustment (I've done this before with a similar auger and the difference was amazing - youtube has a bunch of videos on how to add an aluminum pop can shim to the blades to change the angle for those interested) - but blades are not too cheap and it will take more time to deal with esp. if the angle of the blades is what is reducing the shaving abilities.

I think this was my cheapest option (esp. given that I had pts that can offset cash) and it works much better immediately. And I really like having that point on the tip to help keep the auger from wandering before the blades catch the ice well.

Glad to hear you are punching holes efficiently. The whitefish are in trouble now!
Good luck.

Thanks for reporting back and glad it worked out for you.

Good you had CT points to use. Man, I miss the old paper money that I could stash away for gear or tool purchases. Ever since they moved to e-points my wife seems to think they're better used saving $0.50 on lightbulbs

I made a large purchase with 25x points bonus a few weeks back and, seeing the value of the points, decided it was time for my own card

Lots of lake to explore and if this snow and slush would just disappear, maybe I can cover more water and find some...damn lakers are getting in the way lots of fun.

Always nice to all of a sudden realize you have a bunch of CT pts on the card that you can use for something "useful"...instead of a bunch of light bulbs and stuff that are needed around the house. Who needs light...just sleep when it gets dark and wake up when it's time to fish.

I just picked up a brushless hammer drill from Home Hardware on sale. Works well with my clam plate, 8” Swede bore. Stalls out sometimes requires a specific technique at the bottom, but way easier than hand auger. It’s not even the best dewalt drill out there, but it works well for me. 5aH battery. Was drilling through 20” of slush and ice way better than by hand.

Edit: Auger extension is a must with the clam plate in my opinion.

Before it stall I raise it to clear the hole a bit. cuts easier after

100%. My auger is missing half the paint so a lot of extra resistance when it’s loaded with slush.

New blades on the fin-bore used to be $50 - not sure what they are now. Had the same ones on for approaching 10 years now, still cuts great.

So the Woods E-Drill has the adapter which adds more length (and length can be adjusted - I think it has 3 or 4 levels roughly about 4-6"?? each notch. Will try to work on the technique. It's really a minor issue that doesn't bother me much. And I do like the side handle on this thing as it is good enough and reduces cost and also the added space a Clam plate takes up - the handle is easy to screw in/out to make things easier to pack up tightly (and I can put a dry bag over the drill to keep it dry and it's easy to get the drill out of the holder as well so it's not an issue if I need the drill for ice anchoring.

Finbore replacement blades (8") are about $65+ these days (sometimes can get them on sale at the end of the season). I was thinking about going that route but was worried I had to deal with shimming even after blade replacement. As it is, I really have little time for fishing stuff so I am happy with the E-drill working quite well out of the box. The 8" replacement blades for the Woods E-drill is $35.

My Finbore bladesare still quite sharp (hand augering seem to be fine...I must be tremendously more powerful than my drill ) and I even nicked my thumb a few weeks back and I barely touched (not even ran my thumb across it...I mean, I just barely tapped the blade). I think my auger is about the same age (maybe a few years more) and in great shape. And if we get a light snow year like last year (so I am not always so sore from clearing all that snow (and now ice) and off the roof that we have had this year, I will likely pull out the hand auger again for the exercise...esp, early ice

You can exchange your auger blades for used ones that have been professionally sharpened locally at the Bait Shop in Haliburton. I think 30$ cash. They have most models and sizes and you can pick. Decent deal. I’ve done it a couple times.

Over 70 bucks with taxes purchased a new set this year for the finbore 8 inch.

You can exchange your auger blades for used ones that have been professionally sharpened locally at the Bait Shop in Haliburton. I think 30$ cash. They have most models and sizes and you can pick. Decent deal. I’ve done it a couple times.

That's pretty cool. Then there is the gas to Haliburton so I would drop by if I happened to be passing by....or I was able to make a fishing trip out of it. That would be for the more expensive Finbore blades. But for the Woods E-Drill, new blades are only $35 at CT and if I had points....or if they went on sale (and I had more points...).